Top Sustainable Fabrics Ranked Best to Worst

February 13, 2019 | 8 minute read

Written by Arti Jalan

When it comes to taking meaningful environmental action, one of the most effective choices we can make is selecting Earth-friendly fabrics in our clothing. The clothing industry is a major contributor to pollution, from the harmful environmental effects of fabric production to the microfibers released when washing clothes, which can seriously damage our ecosystems and waterways.

By opting for fabrics that are sustainably produced, durable, and biodegradable, we can significantly reduce our environmental footprint.

Below, I’ve outlined 6 fabrics, ranked from most to least Earth-friendly, and the impacts they have on the planet during production, throughout their lifespan, and when they are no longer needed.

1. Hemp

Hemp is one of the most versatile plants on Earth, with countless uses – and as a fabric, it stands out as the top choice for sustainability. 

Hemp requires very little water to grow and produces two to three times more fiber per acre than cotton. Unlike most crops, it actually enriches the soil as it grows, rather than depleting it of nutrients. Hemp encourages biodiversity, especially when it is grown organically and as a rotation crop. It also produces lots of pollen on the off-season, which attracts pollinators. It also is an excellent plant for carbon storage, where just one hectare sequesters 9-15 tonnes of CO2 – a similar amount that a young forest stores.  

Hemp fabric is breathable, soft, warm, moisture-wicking, and naturally anti-bacterial. Like linen, it is incredibly durable and becomes softer with each wash. Since hemp is a fully natural fiber (when not blended with synthetics), it poses no risk of harmful microfibers polluting the water supply when machine-washed, as it degrades easily over time.

At the end of its life, hemp is biodegradable and home compostable, making it ideal for use as garden mulch. From a sustainability standpoint, hemp is undoubtedly the most eco-friendly fabric choice available.

2. Linen

Linen, alongside hemp, remains traditionally and historically one of the best and most sustainable fabrics to date, not to mention one of the oldest fabrics known, dating back at least 30,000 years.

Made from the flax plant, linen production uses the entire plant, reducing waste from the start. Flax is easy to grow and quickly replenishes itself, requiring far less water than cotton and no chemical fertilizers or pesticides, making linen production highly sustainable – especially when techniques like dew-retting or enzyme-retting are used (as opposed to water-retting).

Linen is incredibly durable, with a lifespan that far exceeds many other fabrics. Recently, linen has experienced a resurgence, as more people seek to reduce their fashion footprint and embrace a simpler, more sustainable and ancestral lifestyle. The fabric is breathable, lightweight, absorbent, antimicrobial, and naturally moth-resistant, making it ideal for warm weather. It also has the unique ability to reduce gamma radiation by nearly half, offering protection from solar radiation. Linen is the only fabric that becomes stronger when wet, and like hemp, it grows softer with each wash. Additionally, linen’s microfibers are of no environmental concern, as they naturally biodegrade in water.

Linen garments that are left undyed or naturally dyed will fully biodegrade over time, making it an incredibly Earth-friendly choice.

Linen also stands out for its healing properties, particularly when we consider the frequencies of different fabrics. In 2003, Dr. Heidi Yellen conducted a groundbreaking study on the vibrational frequencies of various fabrics. The study found that the human body has a natural frequency of around 100, and that fabrics with lower frequencies can strain the body, while those with higher frequencies can energize and support it.

Here’s a breakdown of the frequencies of various fabrics studied:

• Linen and Wool: These fabrics are powerhouses, coming in at a frequency of 5,000. Many patients who wore linen post-surgery or after injury reported faster healing and a significant reduction in pain when using linen bandages

• Organic (Unbleached) Cotton: This fabric has a frequency of 100, making it neutral, where it doesn’t affect the body’s energy

• Non-Organic Cotton: This fabric comes in at 70, lower than organic cotton

• Leather: Has a frequency of 30

• Rayon and Bamboo: These fabrics are lower still, at 15

• Silk: Surprisingly low, at 10

• Synthetic Fabrics (Polyester, Acrylic, Spandex, Viscose, Nylon): These come in at 0, offering no vibrational energy to the body

If you suffer from skin conditions like rashes, eczema, or fungal or bacterial infections, choosing fabrics with higher frequencies may offer significant benefits. Consider incorporating these healing fabrics into your daily life – linen bedsheets (a personal favorite!), 100% alpaca wool sweaters, cashmere lounge sets, organic cotton tees, and even organic cotton underwear and pajamas. By choosing these higher-frequency fabrics, you may improve your overall wellbeing and support your body’s natural healing processes.

3. Bamboo (similar to Rayon or Viscose)

Bamboo is often celebrated as an eco-friendly fabric, but the truth behind its production is more complex than it may seem. 

Bamboo is one of the fastest-growing plants on Earth, requiring little water and no pesticides or fertilizers, making it an attractive raw material. However, the process of transforming bamboo into soft fabric – often referred to as bamboo rayon or viscose – relies on a highly chemical-intensive process. This method generates significant waste, with around 50% of the hazardous byproducts being released into the environment, as they cannot be recaptured. Additionally, much of the bamboo used for fabric comes from China, where pesticide use can be difficult to regulate. While some growers claim to use sustainable practices, others may use harmful chemicals to boost production, leading to concerns about the environmental impact of bamboo cultivation.

Bamboo fabric is known for its moisture-wicking properties, pulling sweat away from the skin for evaporation. However, claims that bamboo is naturally antibacterial or UV-resistant are largely unsubstantiated, as the chemical process used to turn bamboo into fabric likely negates these benefits. While bamboo fabric is incredibly soft and comfortable against the skin, its overall sustainability is compromised by the manufacturing process.

Although bamboo fabric is biodegradable, it falls somewhere between natural and synthetic fibers in terms of environmental impact. The fabric needs to be properly recycled in a specialized facility, rather than simply composted at home. Furthermore, the production of bamboo fabric is a significant source of microfiber pollution, which can be harmful to aquatic life.

On a more positive note, a more sustainable alternative to traditional bamboo fabric exists: lyocell, often branded as TENCEL®. This fabric is made through a closed-loop process that recycles 99% of the chemical solution used in production, significantly reducing waste and chemical release. Lyocell is often made from sustainably farmed eucalyptus trees, making it a more environmentally responsible choice.

As Julie from Logan and Finley points out, "Not all bamboo is the same. Closed-loop bamboo and other certified fabrics are processed with minimal waste, and the bamboo is sourced sustainably." Brands like Miik are leading the way in producing durable, sustainable bamboo fabrics that are carefully manufactured to minimize environmental impact.

In summary, while bamboo fabric has some eco-friendly attributes, its production process leaves much to be desired. Opting for more sustainable alternatives like lyocell, or choosing bamboo products from brands that prioritize closed-loop systems and certified sustainable practices, can help reduce its environmental footprint.

4. Cotton

Cotton is one of the most widely used fabrics in the world, making up about a quarter of all textiles in clothing. Despite its popularity, cotton production is far from sustainable.

The process of growing conventional cotton is resource-intensive, requiring vast amounts of water, pesticides, and arable land. For example, producing just one cotton t-shirt consumes around 700 gallons of water - equivalent to the amount a person drinks in 2.5 years. Cotton farming also accounts for 4.7% of the world’s pesticide use, which has significant environmental and health consequences. While organic cotton is a better alternative, it often requires more land to produce, as its crop yields decrease over time.

Another major concern with cotton is microfiber pollution. Non-organic cotton fabrics shed microfibers when washed, which enter our water systems and contribute to environmental damage. Furthermore, most cotton fabrics are not fully biodegradable if treated with synthetic dyes or chemicals. Organic cotton, on the other hand, will eventually biodegrade, though it still poses challenges due to the way it’s processed.

In short, while cotton remains a staple fabric, its environmental impact – especially in terms of water use, pesticide reliance, and microfiber pollution – makes it far less sustainable than many people realize. Organic cotton is a better choice, but it still faces challenges that need addressing in the quest for truly sustainable textiles. 

5. Wool

Wool is one of the world’s oldest fabrics and has long been a favorite fabric due to its warmth and durability, but it’s not for everyone – particularly strict vegans. While wool is one of the most environmentally-friendly fabrics in terms of its intrinsic properties, its carbon footprint is a significant factor that places it lower on the sustainability scale.

The primary environmental issue with wool comes from the methane emissions produced by sheep, which can contribute to around 50% of wool’s carbon footprint.

However, sheep are often raised on non-arable land, meaning they don’t compete with crops for resources, which is a more sustainable use of land compared to some plant-based fibers.

In terms of fabric performance, wool is tough, resilient, and naturally wrinkle-resistant. It can absorb a substantial amount of moisture before feeling damp, making it an excellent alternative to polyester fleeces, which are notorious for shedding microfibers and microplastics. When wool fibers do shed, they biodegrade naturally, making them less harmful to the environment than synthetic alternatives. Wool garments can last for decades, significantly longer than the average lifespan of cotton or synthetic fabrics, which typically last only 2 to 3 years. So, while wool has a higher carbon footprint, it’s balanced by its longevity and our lower rate of its consumption.

An even more sustainable option is alpaca wool, which outperforms sheep’s wool in several ways. Alpacas produce incredibly warm, soft fibers, and unlike sheep’s wool, alpaca wool is naturally free of lanolin, making it hypoallergenic and reducing the need for harsh processing chemicals. Alpacas also produce much more fiber per animal – one alpaca can yield enough for 4-5 sweaters, compared to a cashmere goat that can only produce enough for a quarter of a sweater each year. Alpaca wool is moisture-wicking, breathable, and highly durable, and since alpacas come in a range of natural colors (over 22 recognized colours in the U.S.), the need for dyeing is greatly reduced, further lowering their environmental impact.

 Additionally, alpacas are more sustainable in terms of their grazing habits. They have soft, padded feet, so they don’t damage pastures like hoofed animals do. They eat less, consuming only about 1.5% of their body weight in food daily, making them more biologically efficient than other livestock. Alpacas also produce excellent fertilizer, and their droppings, known as "beans," can be used directly in gardens or flower pots without needing to be composted first.

Lastly, alpaca is one of the oldest domesticated animals in the world, and in Peru, where 80% of the world’s alpaca fiber comes from, people have been wearing these fibers for centuries. Alpaca has the ability to empower Peruvian Indigenous populations, as those residing in the Andean highlands rely on herding alpaca for their livelihoods. According to the FAO, around 85% of Peruvian alpaca farms are run by smallholders, and these animals mostly live free-range and in their natural habitats, making supporting ethically-made Andean-grown alpaca wool a sustainable and reciprocal practice.

In conclusion, while traditional wool has a high carbon footprint due to methane emissions, its durability and biodegradability help mitigate its impact. For a more sustainable alternative, alpaca wool offers many advantages, from a lower environmental footprint to better efficiency in production, making it a strong contender in the world of eco-friendly fabrics.

6. Recycled Polyester

Recycled polyester is often touted as a more sustainable option, but it remains one of the least eco-friendly fabrics on the market, despite its widespread use.

In fact, polyester makes up about 60% of all clothing today. While it is durable, stretchy, comfortable, and low-maintenance, recycled polyester is still fundamentally a plastic product, made from crude oil.

Although recycled polyester is an improvement over virgin polyester – since it reduces the demand for oil (nearly 70 million barrels of oil are used each year to make polyester) and diverts plastic waste from landfills – it still carries significant environmental drawbacks. At the end of its lifecycle, recycled polyester behaves the same way as new polyester, posing long-term disposal challenges.

Every time recycled polyester is washed, it sheds a large number of microfibers that enter our water systems, where they’re ingested by marine life (and eventually, by us). These microfibers are not biodegradable and can take up to decades and longer to break down, making them a major contributor to ocean pollution and posing a threat to both aquatic ecosystems and human health.

Many brands proudly advertise that their clothing is made from recycled ocean plastic or repurposed water bottles. However, unless the garment is designed for specific purposes – such as raincoats, activewear, or swimsuits – there’s little reason to rely on polyester, recycled or not. Don’t be misled by "greenwashing" claims that a simple dress or t-shirt made from recycled polyester is sustainable. In reality, recycled polyester, despite its slight improvements, is still far from an environmentally responsible choice.

To sum up, these are the 4 sources of almost all fashion fabrics, in order of sustainability.

PLANT

• Hemp

• Linen

• Jute

• Cotton

Tree

• Lyocell

• Viscose (Bamboo)

• Modal

• Rayon

Animal

• Silk

• Cashmere

• Wool

• Leather

Oil

• Polyester

• Nylon

• Acrylic

• Spandex

And below, we’ve listed the fabrics that do and that do not contain plastic microfibres. Next time you’re shopping, consider this list before purchasing.

Plastic

• Polyester

• Nylon

• Spandex

• Acrylic

• Chiffon

• Fleece

• Satin 

No Plastic

• Hemp

• Linen

• Silk

• Wool

• Leather (genuine)

• Bamboo

• Rayon / Viscose

Always check the fabric breakdown before purchasing clothing – whether on the tag in-store or in the product details online. Some items may be marketed as sustainable, like a "Cashmere Sweater," but upon closer inspection, you may find that it’s only 55% wool, with the rest made from polyester or other non-sustainable fibers.

Blended fabrics are the most challenging to recycle, break down, and care for responsibly, so it’s important to know exactly what you’re buying.

Opting for garments made from single, natural fibers is usually the most eco-friendly choice.